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Shades EQ 101: Which SEQ Family Should You Be Using?

August 27, 2019

There’s perhaps no other Redken color product more iconic than Shades EQ, a staple for more than three decades.“Stylists will say that as long as they have hairspray,they can create any style. If a colorist has Shades EQ, they can create any kind of color,” says Redken Artist Lori Zabel. “The fact that it’s been around for so long and is still at the top of its game is proof of that.”It’s fair to say there is clearly no shortage of Shades EQ options to choose from. Below Lori shares her advice for selecting from the classics, plus weighs in on what she likes about a few of the newest SEQ families. 

It all starts with basic color principles, says Lori: “When I determine which Shades EQ family I should be using, I ask myself if I need a base, or if I just need a tone—and if I need a tone, what tone do I need?” Take, for example blonde highlights, she says. The hair on the mid-lengths and the ends can easily become too cool, and not match up with a beautiful beige highlight. In this case, you wouldn’t need a base, just a tone to match up the ends, she says. Shades EQ makes it easy because all of the families offer what you need, and all you have to do is check the swatch book to determine the tone and base you need, she points out. 

Read on to learn more about Redken's Shades EQ families!

VIOLET BLUE

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“We’ve had Violet Blue (VB) for some time, but this shade family has been a game-changer. The Violet Blue shades provide an additional tool to get that perfect blonde look, because they will help counteract yellow and orange tones,” she says. The three new shades neutralize unwanted warmth, and can be used either on their own (for a full-strength effect), or diluted with Crystal Clear for less intensity.

Natural Ash

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Talk about trending. “Everyone is asking for that very cool, flat, ashy tone that’s all over Instagram,” points out Lori. The six shades in the Natural Ash family are perfect for this because they’re just ashy enough, without veering into gray territory, she adds. Lori often likes toning the base color all-over with one of the NA options first, prior to highlighting her clients.“It gives the hair a nice neutral brown tone, the perfect palette to work off of,” she explains. Either way, this SEQ family is ideal for combatting brassiness, while still staying soft and balanced.

Level 10 Shades

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Born out of popular demand, Redken recently introduced the NEW Level 10 shades from Shades EQ. Stylists had long requested shades higher than a level 9 to help tone and perfect their high-level blonde clients. Enter these two newbies, the Shades EQ Level 10 delicate toners. These shades are ideal for neutralizing as well as cool or neutral blonde toning, 010VV Lavender Ice and 010N Delicate Natural are the perfect anti-yellow toners to use on the highest level blondes.

SEQ Gloss To Gel

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Photo Credit : @hairzillaa

The Shades EQ Processing Solution for Precision Application turns the classic SEQ gloss formula into a versatile gel. With a bit more stick and a little more control to it, it’s ideal for detailed technique work, such as lowlights or a shadowed root. “It also works well if you want to create any kind of special effects or ombré finishes, and also adheres better on hair that’s coarse or wiry,” points out Lori. 

No matter which Shades EQ option you go with, they all have the benefit of being an acidic haircolor. Hair is at its healthiest when it’s in a slightly acidic state, at a pH of 4.5-5.5. Lightening services push hair into the alkaline state, which is when toning with Shades EQ comes in big for preserving the health and integrity of the hair. By bringing that pH back down towards the acidic side of things, Shades EQ helps smooth down the hair's cuticle, leaving it smooth, shiny, and healthy.

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