8 Tips For Your Best Balayage
8 Tips For Your Best Balayage
Summer is here, which means so too is the season of sun-kissed strands. And while Balayage can be one of the best ways to give guests that natural, “I’ve been laying at the beach all week” look, there are a few challenges that can arise when working with this trending technique.
Between spotty applications, brassy shades and color that just won’t take, there are a few Balayage dilemmas that every colorist will encounter from time to time. So, we chatted with some of the best in the industry, Redken Artist Sean Godard and Redken Brand Ambassador Cassandra McGlaughlin, for a few tips on getting it right with every client.
One piece of advice that everyone can follow? "Practice makes perfect. Always try new techniques and see what works best for you,” says Redken Artist Sean Godard. Read on for even more tips on creating your best Balayage ever.
Understand When Balayage Is Best
While Balayage can provide great results, it may not always be the route for every client, and it’s important to understand the limitations of the process. “Make sure you have a canvas that is going to support the end result that you're looking to get with Balayage,” says Redken Ambassador Cassandra McGlaughlin, noting that if you’re in a color correction situation or dealing with levels five and darker, you’re typically not going to get a very light end result. “Some of the looks we see online that feature really bright blonde tones may have the appearance of being balayaged, but much of the time they're foiled and not balayaged.” It’s important to be mindful of your client’s level and determine if a Balayage technique is right for that particular situation.
Prep The Hair Properly
Getting hair ready to be Balayaged is (almost) as crucial as the Balayage itself. “For example, if your client has product buildup, don't be afraid to take the time to clarify the hair before the service. After all, you want your lightener to be able to work at its maximum capacity,” says McGlaughlin. This will give you the opportunity to maximize your lift.
Beware Of The Most Common Mistake
"Spotting is the most common,” says Godard, of the challenges that often occur with Balayage. "This results from either too much or not enough product saturation.” To avoid this less-than-desirable look in the finished result, he suggests keeping your brush flat during application, and layering on enough product to ensure saturation.”
Cater Your Formulas
As with all haircolor situations, achieving the perfect formula is all about understanding the hair that you’re working with — Godard suggests looking at starting level, hair texture and abundance, and previous color history as a jumping off point. "It’s important to use a higher level developer than normal with Balayage to compensate for the open-air technique [meaning the balyage isn’t covered, like a foil] to make sure you get the lift that you are looking for. Formulas for toning afterwards will vary depending on the desired end result and the level the hair was lifted to,” says Godard.
Map Out The Placement
With Balayage, it’s not as much about the color itself as it is about the placement. “That's going to give you the depth and dimension,” says McGlaughlin. "If you do skinny sections and place them very close together, you're going to achieve a higher percentage of lightness and brightness, but if you do wider sections and leave more hair between, you're going to create built-in low lights and dimension.” Where you place your hand-painted lines will also make a difference when it comes to how light you bring the hair or how much depth you leave at the root. Seeking out education on different techniques and how to properly place the highlights is another a great way to build your confidence. Interested in fine-tuning your haircolor skill set? Check out the Redken Exchange class schedule here!
Maximize Lift
When it comes to Balayage, maximizing and evening out lift is the key to a stunning final look. "If you're using a clay- based lightener, you’ll need to be sure that the hair is fully saturated,” says McGlaughlin. “A common mistake is applying clay lightener too thin. In this case, the lightener can dry out and stop the lifting process. Full saturation creates a capsule of lightener around the hair so that the product can be effective.”
Be Patient
Don’t rush perfection, as they say — it’s important to take your time to get the best results. "The processing time is longer than usual with Balayage — or longer than foil highlights — to achieve lighter results,” says Godard. "Be patient. I also like to re-apply fresh lightener when the first application has dried up and is no longer lifting. Washing is not necessary; Simply wipe off the first application as much as possible then apply the fresh batch directly over that.”
Educate Clients On The Process
No client wants a brassy balayage, but brass is easily avoidable thanks to Redken’s must-haves for toning and maintaining beautiful blonde haircolor- Shades EQ gloss and Color Extend Blondage. "Going to the salon in between services to get a Shades EQ gloss will help keep your client’s tone cool and shiny,” says Godard. Additionally, sending clients on their way with Color Extend Blondage Shampoo and Conditioner, a color-depositing haircare system, will help banish unwanted brassy and yellow undertones, to guarantee a bright, radiant Balayage long after they leave your chair.